How to Survive the Dark Winters
One question that Norwegians always ask me is: ‘How do you like the darkness?’ I always say: ‘I love it!’ They are often very surprised.
It is typical for foreigners to be nervous about facing the dark winters in Norway. If you live above the Arctic Circle there is a period of time when the sun doesn’t make it over the horizon. When the sun doesn’t appear for 24 hours it is called a Polar Night. The higher you go above the Arctic Circle, the more Polar Nights there are. Tromsø, where I live, is 350 kilometres (217 miles) above the Arctic Circle and has 60 Polar Nights in a row.
So how can you survive 60 days without the sun? It’s easy: When in Norway, do as the Norwegians do! Below I will share with you some of the Norwegian secrets in surviving the long dark winters.
Being Aware
One very important element of how Norwegians survive the darkness is their awareness of Winter SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder). SAD is a Winter depression that effects especially those living in the Nordic countries. Winter depression was actually discovered in the 6th century by the gothic scholar Jordanes from his study of Scandza (Scandinavia).
Winter SAD is caused by a biochemical imbalance because of lack of sunlight. The main symptoms are tiredness and oversleeping, fatigue, a craving for sugary foods, feelings of sadness, guilt and a loss of self-esteem, irritability, and avoiding social and physical contact. Norwegians are taught about this disorder in daily life, from family, in schools and by the government through TV campaigns. Awareness is key but the best remedy is that Norwegians have made preventing Winter SAD a way of life.
Preparing for Winter
Cod Liver Oil
It is a well known fact that Cod Liver Oil helps your body to soak up the goodness of the sunlight. Cod liver oil has a lot of good omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin A and vitamin D. Even though Norwegians eat a lot of fish products, it is normal for children and adults to have a spoonful of cod liver oil every day of the year. This is one of the things that child health centres teach new mothers. At your one-year-old’s check up with the Jordmor (midwife) information is given about the value of cod liver oil to growing bodies. (We were even given a large bottle of oil to take home.)
Soaking up Summer
Living in Norway makes you value the Summers so much more – not a moment is wasted. Norwegians participate in many outdoor sports and activities. Days are spent trekking in the mountains, boating, bike riding, and sunbathing. The idea is to store up as much happy sunshine to last you until next Spring. And there is certainly a lot of sunshine to be had. Tromsø may have 60 Polar Nights, but we also have 60 Polar Days – that’s 60 days of eternal sunshine! Even at midnight there are people enjoying the sun, having BBQs on the beach, playing volleyball in the sand, going to outdoor concerts and celebrating the Midnight Sun.
Surviving the Winter
Exercise
Norwegians are very good at exercising. During the winter it is especially good to exercise so your body can get that activity-high of moving around and warming up your body. Norwegians utilise the snow for exercise activities such as skiing, snow boarding etc., but they also go to the gym. However, Norwegians also know that just getting outside and going for a walk can be just as good. Walking through the snow, lifting your knees up to tread over snowy mounds, using your muscles for balance on the ice and just basically getting around outside in the winter is very hard work but great exercise.
Fresh Air
During Winter the air is particularly fresh. It is important to get out of the house every day into the fresh winter air. The house is kept closed during winter, the windows are kept shut and the heaters run continuously. This atmosphere can make you tired and sluggish. Getting out in the fresh air will rejuvenate you and make your body feel happy. Parents always take their children outside – even babies are taken for a walk outside in their prams. It is common practise for Norwegians to wrap their baby up nice and snug and put them in the pram outside on the veranda for a revitalising sleep. The fresh air makes the baby sleep better and for longer.
Don’t Stop Activity
One very important aspect of surviving the darknes is to keep doing your activities. When the darkness and snow comes, life still goes on! It is very easy to decide to stay in because it is snowing outside or it is dark. Making the effort to go out – putting on your snow gear, walking to the bus stop, riding the bus, going to the movies, the cafe, the library, then home again and un-suiting is worth it! (Besides, all indoors, even the busses, are heated.) Hat hair, wet behinds from slipping in the snow, mud on your boots, red noses, cold hand shakes, snow in your jacket are all accepted here. No need to apologise, its just a part of life in Norway. The winter doesn’t even stop outside play for school children. Even kindergarten kids are suited up everyday for an outside play. Their special jump-suits keep them nice and toasty. When it is time to go back inside just a shimmy-shake will get off the snow. (If the kids are dirty then they are hosed off!)
Attitude
I suppose this is a given but attitude is really important in dealing with the darkness. The people who say ‘I can’t live without the sun’ are completely right – they can’t. But the people who see it as an adventure are the ones who have a wonderful time during the darkness. Norwegians really enjoy the dark season. It is a time of celebration with Advent, Santa Parades, St Lucia Day, Christmas, Julebukk, New Years, and the end of Christmas party. And without darkness you can not see the Northern Lights. You can read more about Norwegian attitude to the darkness in the post The Great Slumber.
Don’t Be Scared
Growing up we are taught to be scared of the dark – you never know when the boogie monster might get you! However, in Norway, darkness is just a way of life. People in warmer countries think that when it is dark you have to stay indoors but this is impractical when you only have an hour of light each day. Darkness in Norway is also playtime, just the same as if it was light. After school, it is dark but the kids play in the snow. They go sledding, build snowmen and have snowball fights in their front yards, down the street and in the parks. Kids also walk to school in the darkness and walk home in the darkness. Reflectors are very important during the Polar Nights. You can read more about using reflectors in the post Everyone Reflects for the Winter.
Solariums and Artificial Light
Some Norwegians like to get their fix of light at Solarium centres. However, because of the health risks this is becoming less popular.
Bright light lamps or light boxes that provide intense illumination (much more than normal house lights) are sometimes used. The light is usually white ‘full spectrum’, although you can also use blue light which is the light colour of the sun. These lights might be good for making your body happy but I think its a good idea to keep the light behind you, otherwise it can hurt your eyes after long exposure.
Seeing the Light
Even though it is dark from November to February (give or take) the season is still filled with light.
There is Still Sunlight
Even though the sun doesn’t rise over the horizon there is still sunlight! Depending how high you are above the Arctic Circle, near noon-time for an hour or so the light of the sun peeks over the horizon, lighting up the white landscape. This is the best time to have a walk to enjoy the ‘blue light‘.
The Lightness of Nature
The snow is very reflective. Just having a little bit of light will have a lot of effect in the snow. This is because the snow is uneven and therefore bounces the light everywhere and the little icicles in the snow sparkle. White is the greatest reflective colour because it is the full spectrum – all the colours together. Melted snow (ice) also has a shiny glaze that reflects. So even though it is dark, the white snowy landscape lightens up the place. The side of the full moon is very bright in the northern sky which also reflects on the snow and the water. And, of course, if you look up you also have the Northern Lights.
Fire
Norwegians love fire. Any chance they get they will light up a candle. It is normal to see many candles on tables and windowsills. Welcome Candles are small dishes that nestle in the snow by front doors to greet visitors. Shops also use these candles to welcome customers in from the cold as well as open fire torches. The fireplace is the centre of the home and Norwegians have the fire going every night in winter. (It is a great way to preserve energy.) Even though the sun can’t be seen, a fire always warms the soul.
City Lights
The lights in the city, suburb streets and even the snow tracks are always on during the dark season. The lights give off a low glow rather than stark whiteness and adds to the beauty of winter. Also in the city the Christmas lights are lit at the beginning of the dark season, right before Advent, and stay on until mid-January.
House Lights
By law all buildings and houses need outside lights for safety. During the Christmas season, which lasts til the 13th of January, Christmas lights decorate houses and front garden Christmas trees. So, even the streets are very festive and beautiful in Norway.
Window lamps are in every house. In the dark season Norwegians place hanging lamps in the windows to mimic the sun. Tee Lights are very common as well as a variety of candles around the house. At Christmas you’ll find the traditional 5 or 7 stick candelabra in many windows or a lighted star.



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Today herding reindeer is synonymous with the Sami culture. It is recently thought that the Vikings were the first people to herd reindeer.
I’ve been enjoying your website–we, too, are living in Tromsø and love it here. Especially enjoyed the photos of the helicopter bringing the Christmas tree to sentrum! Tusand tak!
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from L-Jay:
Hi Mary!
Yes, Tromsø is a wonderful place. There is so much to discover. Each season in very exciting and it’s such a joy to share our experiences here. Thanks for your comment.
God jul!
You forgot about alcohol, (lots and lots of alcohol)
in your otherwise great post.
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from L-Jay:
Oh, I knew there was something I forgot! lol. It warms the belly and dulls the senses so no matter how dark it gets you won’t remember it!
Really interesting post, here in Britain we’re the opposite
Britons LOVE to moan and winter provides us with ample opportunity. Winter is a time for being pessimistic and gloomy. I was surprised to read that kids are allowed to roam free in the dark, parents in the UK would never allow it. maybe thats why we’re all so obese? haha
*wants to be in Norway right now*
when I lived in Alta it was from September to February.
I remember the Sun going down on November 20th or so and it didn’t come back until mid February, check with Moose, I could be wrong.
But I also remember loving the dark. Despite the cold there was a warmth about the dark, there was a peacefulness and a quiet to it. Obviously while I was there, I was outside the majority of the day.
I also found that Nordlyset more than compensated for having to put up with all the dark. The nights when there was no Nordlyset and there was a cloud cover, the city lights reflecting off the clouds and snow seemed to make Alta very bright.
Most of all, walking each night up the road to your Farmor and Farfars farm. Knowing that I would walk in the house and within a few moments, Farmor would ask, “Er dokker sulten?” to which we always replied, “Ja, takk.”
I miss it still
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from L-Jay:
Ah yes, Farmor certainly has a way with words!
We always make sure not to eat anything before we go to Farmors place because we know when we get there hot chocolate, boller, carrot cake, even soup or kjøttkaker could be waiting for us…lol. I think I put on five kilos everytime we visit – but they are really ‘yummy for the tummy’ kilos
Thanks for this beautiful post. Your survival guide was wonderful. You really painted a magical place in the dark and I would love to visit Norway during that time of year.
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from L-Jay:
Hi Gordon!
One of the things I like best about the winter is that it focuses you on family and friends. Even though there is a lot happening out in nature – and Norwegians do get out as much as they can – there is a lot of focus on the home, spending time together, preparing for Christmas together, and visiting friends and family. I think this is what makes the dark season extra special.
Thanks for your comment. God jul!
Skulle ønsker de solgte fakkelbokser her i England. Så koselig med lys utenfor døra.
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from L-Jay:
Wow! Your Norwegian is so good! It seems like it will take me forever to learn the language.
Hi! Found your blog when searching for norway-based blogs a few years ago and have really enjoyed checking in from time to time. After some time abroad, I am currently on my way to relocating to Setermoen in Bardu. Do you have any suggestions on what do to find housing there? I tried to find a place to email you on the site, but wasn’t succesful! Thanks and Godt Nytt År!!
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from L-Jay:
There is a big army barracks out there – if you are moving there because of work in the army then they have housing for career army personnel. Otherwise the best places to look are:
- in the local news paper for Mid-Troms: http://www.nye-troms.no/ This is the online version. The paper version would be better. If you aren’t in Bardu but are staying in another city for a while (like Oslo) then you can go to the city library and view all the local papers from around the country for free.
- the national online trading post http://www.finn.no/ This website has everything, however not as many people advertise here as in most small towns finding places to live tend to be ‘word of mouth’.
Shop windows in Bardu will also have listings but as said above, in small towns usually ‘word of mouth’ is best. Everything, of course, will be in Norwegian.
Lykke til!
Hello,
I really love your blog. I am learning so much about the Norvegian life that I am becoming familiar with it. In this way when I will come (hopefully) to live permanent there it will not be scary and I will not be afraid of the dark. No I am not scared of the boogy man. I am to old for this… But being from Greece that is full of sunshine moving to the darker daies will be a big change for me.
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from L-Jay:
It will be – maybe you should spend a month in the darkness to see how you go first
. I think everyone should spend both a dark season and a sun season before moving permanently to Norway. The two are polar opposites.
Hi L-Jay
I need some advice on work permit, I have received a concrete offer of employment and fulfill all the necessary requirements of a skilled worker, however I have tow issues where I need your kind advice, 1. The embassy staff informed me that I can enter Norway on a short trip visa and then wait for the decision on my work permit, is it possible 2. When I submitted the work permit application in parallel to the short trip application they had requested for original degrees of my university but I had submitted those in an another place for immigration so I could only submit the photocopies, I wonder if they would ask for the original ones at a later stage or just simply reject, as I will have all my original documents back within one month, please advice
In the end I would like to thank you for the website its quite interesting and informative, hope to hear from you soon
regards
JF
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from L-Jay:
When you apply for any permit to the embassy in your home country you must stay in your country until the permit is finalised. However, employers don’t like to wait so long for permits to go through and so UDI has allowed employees to start working before permits come through but this depends on your unique situation – where you come from. I would call up the embassy and ask again the information and even ask which document on their website states the rules on such issues, just to cover yourself first. Unfortunately embassy employees are supposed to have all the correct answers but some make things up so they don’t get egg on their face. There is no harm in checking and getting documented evidence of the rules.
One thing that might cancel both your work permit and short trip application is that you are going for two permits at the same time. This is not allowed – when you apply for a residency permit you cannot leave your country of residence until the permit has been finalised (as said above).